Weaving Yardage

Including Upholstery

Yardage can be made either of knits or rags.

See Chapter 5 for other reference to yardage.

Working with Knits

Some knits will curve (roll) under when pulled. This makes for a cleaner or more finished look. Some knits roll when used on the right side of the cloth. Others will roll when using the back side as the right side. Those knits that roll may roll when cut vertically (with the selvage) or, cut crosswise. Knitted ladies? pant material stays flat. I usually cut it in strips just under 1/4 inch wide.

Thick and thinner knits will work together when weaving cloth, but there must be a balancing or repetition of each to make the woven cloth unified. Textured knits, and dull or shiny knits need the same consideration.

The threads from which knits are made can be of varying toughness. Some of the knits need to be cut over with a rotary cutter three to four times. Synthetics dull any cutter more quickly than cotton or wool.

I prefer to use polyester knits because they keep their shape. Acrylic knits stretch in time and may no longer fit. In time, all knits lighten a little when exposed to strong light.

Stretching Knits

Knits used for dance costumes need the strips to be stretched before being used. I just pulled on the strip. If the cut strip of knit frays when it is pulled on, don?t use it. Don?t snap costume knits. The curve you?re trying to put in will come out with the snap.

Costume knit is so spongy even when pulled tight for use, enter the strip in the shed at least to 3" to 3 1/2" beyond the end of the last strip and beat it down lightly. That way it will stay. Otherwise, the two ends could end up nose to nose or only an inch apart. I have found that dropping the ends below the lower part of the shed makes it a lot easier to find the ends if securing them by gluing or stitching is needed. Refer to Chapter 5: Stretching Knits.

Cutting Knits

Spongy synthetic knits need a band saw for the job. We have a razor sharp blade without teeth. It certainly helps with costume knits. A slower metal bandsaw works, but not easily. A circular saw would drag the material. A faster wood working band saw would work the best. The blade needs to be dressed (sharpened) frequently. Synthetics dull any metal blade quickly. Use a saw only if you have the experience with one. A fabric cutter disk or scissors are much safer.

Knits are spongy, taking extra pressure to hold the straightedge still. This is why I prefer to cut the strips with scissors. I may get a callous, but I don?t wreck my hand.

When cutting knits with a fabric cutter, soft knits will stick in the slit made by the rotary cutter in the plastic

( This is the weaving data. I appears alonside the sample in the book.)

Couch Upholstery NAME Fern R

WARP Acrylic Yarn HARNESSES USED 4

Set 5.5 ends per inch

Sleyed Every other dent

WEFT Synthetic Knit HOW CUT saw & scissors

CUT WIDTH Approx. 1/4"

RAG CUT with & opposite

the selvage

SPECIAL PURCHASES Part Warp and padding

DRAFT 1,2,3,4, etc. PICKS PER INCH 6

WARP ORDER Black Only

TREADLING Tabby JOINING Overlap

BEAT Multiple Medium

END FINISH Stitched to hold.

LENGTH 10 1/2" & WIDTH ON LOOM 45"

LENGTH RELAXED 10 1/2" WIDTH RELAXED 43"

SHRINKAGE Not Washed

WEIGHT PER Sq. Ft:

SPECIAL NOTES: The result was a combination of upholstering and re-covering. The original cording gave a good edge to the new covering. The buttons were removed and 1" synthetic padding smoothed out the surfaces. The colors were chosen from colors in a large oil painting. There is little or no shedding from the knit. Be sure to make a complete pattern plan before anything is started. Allow for seams and cutting. The strip ends were stitched down by hand or glued with a fabric glue.

The yardage was in three pieces.

(Photos below )

Camel Saddle NAME Fern R.

WARP Synthetic yarn HARNESSES USED 4

Set 6 ends per inch

Sleyed Every other dent

WEFT Light weight plain HOW CUT Scissors

cotton, etc. CUT WIDTH 1/2" - 5/8"

RAG CUT with & against

grain

SPECIAL PURCHASES: None

DRAFT 1,2,3,4, etc. PICKS PER INCH 5 - 5.5

WARP ORDER O, Gold, Dull YG, Tan, Gold, YG, RO, Tan, Repeat.

TREADLING Tabby JOINING Overlapping

BEAT Hard Multiple

END FINISH Stitched

LENGTH & WIDTH ON LOOM

LENGTH RELAXED 28" WIDTH RELAXED 20"

SHRINKAGE Not Washed

WEIGHT PER Sq. Ft: 1.78 oz.

SPECIAL NOTES: Two items came from the same warp, the camel saddle and fronts to a jacket. The colors are mixed, plain and patterned. The strips are folded and tied down with sewing thread.

The color difference is due to a change of light source. The samples were scanned; the chairs were photographed.

( weaving data)

Brownish Rocker NAME Fern R

WARP 5-2 Mercerized Cotton HARNESSES USED 4

and Rug Warp Set 20 ends per inch

Sleyed Double

WEFT Synthetic Knits HOW CUT Scissors

CUT WIDTH 1/4"-5/8"

RAG CUT 3/8" - 1/4"

SPECIAL PURCHASES None

DRAFT 1,2,3,4, etc. PICKS PER INCH 5

WARP ORDER:

Lav, Dk BG, gray, O, BG, Strawb Brn, O, Gray, BG, O,

TREADLING Tabby JOINING Overlapping

BEAT Multiple Hard

END FINISH Machine Stitched

LENGTH ON LOOM 4.5 yds. WIDTH ON LOOM

LENGTH RELAXED WIDTH RELAXED 3' 2.75"

SHRINKAGE Not Washed

WEIGHT PER Sq. Ft: .71 oz.

SPECIAL NOTES: This warp was for two rockers, the brownish one and the blue green one. The rug warp holds better than the slick mercerized cotton. The knits were plain, textured, and patterned. Both the back and the front of the knits was used. 780 warp threads.

End of Excerpt

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April 6, 2006